“When Burns Night comes along there’s all this fanfare,” says Boyd of the celebration commemorating the life and legacy of Scottish poet Robert Burns on January 25 every year. “Everyone has to get the bagpipes out, drink whisky and eat haggis. Do we need all of that? That’s not to say I'm rubbishing Scottish tradition at all. I just think Burns Night shouldn't be the only night people should enjoy Scottish produce. Let’s not make it stuffy and traditional, but make it approachable and have fun with it.”

That’s the whole ethos behind Auld Hag. Cook and owner Gregg Boyd’s mission is to combine Scottish produce with creativity and playfulness, something that was instilled in him growing up in Glasgow: Boyd’s grandad used to joke that the Scottish national dish, haggis, was this mountain-residing mythical beast you would have to chase around on Burns Night.

Up until six months ago, Boyd worked as an economist. It was during the lockdown that he decided to pursue his lifelong passion. Boyd had an interest in food from a young age, and wanted to be a chef since going to culinary college for work experience. His parents advised against it, citing the long hours of the hospitality industry. His enthusiasm never waned though, and after living in London for a couple of years, he noticed that Scottish restaurants and cafes, where he could go for a taste of home, were few and far between. 

“I was surprised, given how many Scottish people were in London. I saw a gap in the market and decided to go for it, and set up my own food business while working full-time,” he says. “I would never see myself as a chef. I’m just a cook who knows how to pair flavours that go well together.” 

After a year of no social life, juggling being a associate at a firm, doing bike deliveries with rucksacks full of hot haggis, collaborating with other food and drink businesses (such as Brew By Numbers, World Famous Gordos and Naked Soup) as well as cooking at Westgate Street Market and Lower Stable Street Market on the weekends, something had to give. In September 2022, Boyd took the plunge, changed career paths and now does food full-time, with his partner Maddi.

“Dipping my toe and working in markets was so much more manageable and flexible because I could show up and cook, whereas now that I’ve taken the full-time leap there’s more responsibility,” Boyd explains. “It’s the day-to-day stresses of trying to run a business, ordering ingredients on a weekly basis, frequently changing menus and juggling corporate events, but I’m not complaining. This is what I signed up for.”

Auld Hag’s go-to suppliers on REKKI: Penshurst Fine Foods Walter Rose and Son Chapmans of Sevenoaks Fruve Neal’s Yard Dairy

It’s been nothing but full steam ahead for the team at Auld Hag. They’re now operating at Exale Brewery taproom in Walthamstow in east London, from Thursday to Sunday, and have started working with the Scottish government to be their official caterer for all live events in London. 

Since working with Scottish food, Boyd has been able to connect with other Scots in London and reconnect with his roots, but don’t expect to find deep-fried Mars bar on his menu (although, admittedly, he’s done a fair few of those). Coming up with dishes such as haggis pizza, haggis tikka masala, cullen skink wontons, honey turnip purée and ‘Glasgow-style’ salsa verde, Auld Hag is slowly changing the perception of what Scottish cuisine is.

“A lot of people don’t realise that Scotland has all this amazing produce, such as Aberdeen Angus beef, langoustines, scallops, raspberries, seaweed, chocolate and cheese,” Boyd says. “Our passion stems from a love for Scottish scran. ‘Scran’ is the type of food that makes you feel really good, and I just want to give people a proper good feed, that’s all there is to it.”

Boyd has big plans for this year’s Burns Night, and is turning the annual Scottish knee-ups into a month-long celebration. He’s cooking for a hundred people with the Scottish government, creating a special haggis keema naan with Tandoor Chop House and a two-night pop-up, in collaboration with Scottish whisky Laphroaig, at east London cocktail bar Satan’s Whiskers. 

“I think Burns Night is always bigger outside of Scotland because Scots don’t make a big deal out of it,” he explains. “Personally, I love it and go all in. I’m the most typical Scot who loves a wee dram, reading poems and embracing the traditions. I wouldn’t have it any other way.”

Planning your own Burns Night menu? Gregg Boyd has hand-picked his favourite Scottish ingredients on REKKI. 

• Walter Rose and Son makes a nice haggis, from Arbroath in Scotland. 

• Chapmans of Sevenoaks stocks haddock for cullen skink, as well as loads of other Scottish fish such as salmon, mackerel and coley.

• Penshurst Fine Food has all your drystore goods, including oatcakes and oats.  

• Fruve has high-quality vegetables for haggis, neeps and tatties and fruit for the cranachan.

• Neal’s Yard Dairy  sells quality Scottish cheese like Isle of Mull cheddar and Corra Linn.

Auld Hag at Exale Brewing and Taproom, Unit 2C, Uplands Business Park, London E17 5Q